"The American War"

The war museums in Hanoi showcase uncanny war remnants of fighter planes, and bombers, and tanks, and artillery. They also show different sets of images - a Vietnamese perspective of the Vietnam War, which they call the American War. It succinctly tells a harrowing story of a tiny nation’s fight for survival. It speaks of anguished cries, and torn limbs from small frames and chinky eyes; of carpet bombings and Napalm burnings on the civilian population. Then I came face to face with disfigured third and fourth generation Agent Orange victims in an orphanage. What a haunting sight! Like ghosts of a lost generation, they are breathing testaments to the atrocities of the past.

I have a stash of Vietnam in my drawer containing Born on the 4th of July, Platoon, Hamburger Hill, Saving Private Ryan, Deer Hunter and Full Metal Jacket. I watched these films cheering for my brothers, the G.I.s, menaced by Vietcongs in that hellhole -Vietnam.

It was all propaganda after all. Pure yarns making fallen heroes out of brainwashed troops. With one swoop all the prized DVDs flew off the window.

Mayon Volcano

I was ecstatic at the thought of seeing Mayon volcano in Legaspi City. I only see it on postcards - that now ubiquitous Cagsawa bell tower which I thought was a lighthouse. Unbeknownst to me, hidden beneath was a church buried by molten lava when the volcano erupted in 1814. Mayon is the most active volcano in the Philippines, having erupted over 47 times in the past 400 years. From the rice plains of Legazpi, it rises 2462m (8,077 ft) up in the sky. Like a sentinel, it lord’s over the landscape. I never imagined the town could be so close to it – it lies at the volcano’s foot! As you drive along or stand in the middle of the road, you will not see it all in. Looking at it is like watching a movie on a theater floor at the bottom edge of the movie screen. You need to move your head to see the whole image. If Mayon volcano erupts as in 1814, the people below will be instantly overrun and wiped out by the flowing lava. Armageddon will have come swift and unmerciful. At night, you look up and see a strange orange glow in the sky. It’s Mayon’s glowing peak, beautiful, enchanting, foreboding.

As we were driving towards Legaspi City, we could only see the volcano’s huge bluish base, the upper half being hidden behind the clouds. But as we neared the city center, wind blew and the clouds shifted like a gigantic curtain suddenly opening up. Shafts of sunlight danced to show Mayon’s volcanic peak until the whole perfect cone emerged from the haze. My mouth dropped. For a moment I stood in awe at this unexpected display of nature’s grandeur. Then the volcano disappeared again claimed by the shifting clouds. The show has ended as quickly as it had begun.

Hurricanes, Storms & Surfing

New Jersey                                                               Bermuda

New York                                                           Nova Scotia   

Hurricane Bill was brewing in the Atlantic Ocean. It struck the Caribbean seas before moving up north to hit the shores of northern United States and Canada. While the rest of the population cower in fear, surfers paddle out for the time of their lives. They are the only select individuals who literally rejoice in the coming of storms for the swell they caused and the waves they bring.

Almost at the time Hurricane Bill arrived on that part of the globe, tropical storm Jolina hit the northern part of the Philippines. It originated from the South China Sea then moved up north to the western part of northern Philippines. Local surfers in San Juan, La Union went bonkers with their boards and indulged in the heavy surf of Urbiztondo Beach. As always happens in times like these, there were good rides, serious paddling, and - broken boards! One of which happens to be mine! Craaaaack!

Banaue II

We have to bring the Anfra from Manila to Zamboanga which is going to be a 3-day road trip 24/7. That means it has to be in top condition. Where to go? - Banaue. No, not in Ifugao, but a street in Quezon City. We weren’t prepared for this but here it is: car accessories and repair shops line up this whole stretch of street. Minor repairs were done on the sidewalk. You will hear old upholstery ripped apart, dents were hammered out then polished with sandpaper and steel wool. Whirring sound of portable electric saws and planers fill the air. One by one a drove of mechanics came to us, inspecting the car like surgeons. The engine was already overhauled but it has no air conditioning so we came for a fan which ended up being installed on the dashboard. The old rubber lining of the windows was replaced with new ones. They suggested shiny new tire rims and mufflers and mudguards. How about a new car eh? They were in a frenzy making improvements on an old rickety wheels. Any car owner will feel like owning a Ferrari by the attention it gets. If nothing else, this was a good way to feel like royalty.

Pangan-an island

Going to Pangan-an island by boat is easy, but if boat rides make you dizzy, you can take a walk….

Pangan-an is an island-barangay that belongs to Lapu-Lapu City.  It is situated east of Mactan and right next to Olango.  It used to be a legendary fishing ground with fish stock abundant enough to feed China.  Fishermen from faraway places regarded the waters surrounding the island as a place in which to fish, and the island itself as the place on which to eat - kan-anan (dining area).  In time, kan-anan became Pangan-an and the name stuck, but the fish stock gone.

An old riddle asks, in the middle of the sea, what can you see? The letter “e” you say?  Wrong!  In the middle of the sea is - a waiting shed!  Yes indeed, a waiting shed stands proudly right in the middle of a channel that separates Olango Island from Pangan-an.  It is used by tricycle drivers waiting for riders, and vice versa.  Tricycles, in the sea?  That’s right.  At low tide, the area will be completely dewatered as if a hole underneath sucks the seabed dry.  This is not your typical sand bottom seabed, but an immense flat-coral-bedrock.  You can see the two-wheel mark that snakes across the channel and thins toward Pangan-an.  It is a visible nautical highway.  But who needs a ride, when you can walk?  You will see flocks of birds in v-formation against the backdrop of all imaginable cloud formations.  If you are lucky you will see a distant rainfall or a rainbow.  It is a walk you will not soon forget. 

Halfway through on our way back, water started to seep on our path.  As if having minds of their own, little headwaters crawled toward our feet.  The sea has awakened.  Within minutes, this vast expanse of flat rock was covered with sparkling ankle-high water.  At this time, the waiting shed was half-submerged and we were soon surrounded by waste-high seawater. It feels like Moses’ Red Sea crossing.  The walk was longer and tiring, but the open space and the ultimate freedom it brings was worth tiring for.  On the edges are coconut islets, protected from strong waves by walls of mangrove forests. 

It was late afternoon.  The clouds already started to pale on the horizon.  We met locals along the way, traveling the same path as we did.  I waved hello and was rewarded by shy smiles.  I figured, our ancestors from faraway places came here not necessarily on land bridges, but on foot, just like I did at low tide when seawater retreated to reveal that flat bottom bedrock….

River Trek

One of my favorite outdoor pastime is river trekking with my mountaineering group. Clad in cotton shirts, polyester shorts, all weather shoes, a wet proof daypack with some provisions and water in Nalgene (mountaineers are gung-ho about this container brand) we trooped to the Barangay Hall to inform the local authorities of our presence in the area. Since we wouldn’t want to go trekking in a flooded river, we check the latest weather bulletin and look up for any rain clouds.  If we got clear skies and sunshine, we are set and ready to go! For river trek aficionados, here are some hot tips: 

Watch your step

Have a leisurely pace, trek one step at a time. Stepping in between rocks instead of on them can be dangerous. One time I sandwiched my foot between two submerged rocks with a gap small enough to grip the bone in my ankle - this instantly shot pain to my brain! Take caution, what you don’t see can hurt you. When negotiating your way on rocks in the river, always get a secure foothold, more often than not they are slippery or loose. So don’t jump on rocks, chances are, you will slip and bang your head, or the rock tips, gets you off balance and you go splashing in the river.

Watch what you’re holding

Sometimes the water is deep or the current strong that you need to go up the banks or mountain passes and wade through bushes. When there’s a wayward branch on the path, hold it and look behind you before slowly releasing the branch. Don’t yank it. It will snap back at your face. And be careful with what you’re holding, it could be one of those thorny plants (touch-me-nots), or you could be mistaking a tree branch for a snake!

Give directions

When trekking in a group, the one who leads is called the assault, the one who stays last is called the sweeper and those in between are called pacers.  Feel like a pro by giving directions to those lagging behind: In diverging paths stack three rocks to mark the path taken.  If you have seen Blairwitch Project, you know what I mean, but do not stack rocks as high. It’s better to cross the river in pairs or more - It’s for balance and strength in withstanding the river’s rushing water. 

There. River trekking 101. See you in the rivers and streams of our dreams!

8th Wonder

The rice terraces look majestic but there is more to it than meets the eye. The concept of the terraces is simple enough: In order to grow, rice needs water, which the mountain slopes can not hold. But what was borne out of necessity has become something else - a terraced masterpiece, a baffling transformation, a phenomenal sight worthy of UNESCO’s world heritage list. Due to its sheer size, the rice terraces flood your vision. But it is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the other senses. The vast space, the absolute quiet, and the wind softly brushing your skin almost bring you back to the dawn of civilization when our ancestors were carving those mountains. Come. Be there. Be awed. And let your spirit be lifted up the heavens.

Stairway to Heaven

There are as many rice terraces as there are little villages in the canyons of Ifugao. The world famous Banaue Rice Terraces is just one amongst many. It offers a stunning panorama you can view from a platform on a bluff surrounded by shops selling souvenirs. But the best way to go is visit Batad, one of the more famous and photogenic rice-terraces-villages. From the bus station, a tricycle will bring you in an hour on its foot. From there, a good one and a half hour trek on backcountry trail will bring you to Batad’s view deck, making those postcards come alive, and your adrenaline pumping for more. When I came, a shaft of light fell directly on one of the terraces squeezed beneath two slopes. It was long and narrow, and creeping up towards the mist and low clouds. It was mesmerizing, surreal, literally, a stairway to heaven.

Thousand-year-old walls

The massive 10-foot rock walls that hold the rice terraces together is the heart of the matter. No special mortar was used, just plain rocks, mud and hay, but strong enough to survive generations. Water from springs on mountaintops is channeled through irrigation canals beside slope fissures which are then brought to individual paddies by hollowed out bamboo poles - What struck me the most is its simplicity in such a grand setting, and the fact that it hasn’t changed for thousands of years.

The 8^th wonder experience has brought a fresh perspective of who I am. I suddenly became proud of my heritage, of who we are as a people, and of what we have contributed to the world. It is time to pay homage to what our ancestors have ingeniously created and which has given them immortality. I did already.

Bungee

I haven’t updated this blog for a long time. So, here’s something that will make your heart race and your adrenaline pumping for more!

The GX5-Reverse Bungee on the left, G-Max Swing on the right

If you haven’t tried bungee jumping, do it at Clarke Quay in Singapore City. There are two kinds, first is the catapult or GX5-Reverse Bungee. On a platform, we were strapped on our seats. One guy handled the controls. Smoke rose as we leaned back on the headrest then boom! We were catapulted up a hundred feet in midair. The harness was pressed on our bodies as we were jerked, twisted and turned. Our heads snapped and nodded back as the seats rotated downwards. Then the bungee cord pulled us down very fast as if we were going to get smashed on the ground. We shouted in delight but also of fear. The thrill of letting go is exhilarating. Up we go again while we struggled instinctively against gravity. We were slammed against empty air. My stomach felt like being sliced in two over and over again.

The other is the bungee swing called the G-Max. Now this one is the better ride, which means more challenging, all right, scarier. 5 people can enjoy it together. Imagine a gigantic swing – because that is exactly what you are going to get. From the bottom you will be pulled backwards by the machine on the highest point of the swing, slowly. Tik-tik-tik is all you hear. The city grows as you rise higher and higher into the cool night air while you hang facedown. You will see a good stretch of the Singapore river mirroring the mesmerizing lights of Clarke Quay. You feel the harness tightening around you as gravity tries to pull you downward. Your arms and legs dangle, longing for solid ground. The people below looked like ants and they are holding their breaths too. Then the green light is turned on. Somebody pressed the lever and you are released! The sudden falling sensation is so intense that your heart seems to rise to your mouth. Gravity takes control and you are swinging at 9.8meters per second. You try to breathe normally but can’t. Your muscles tighten and your heart race. You scream and hold on to the one beside you like your life depended upon it. Then you rise up again on the opposite side. You look down just when the swing peaks and reverses direction. Gravity pulls you backwards. And you let go. You close your eyes, feeling the wind on your face and butterflies flying in your stomach.

  Bungee at night

The anticipation of seeing that green light was scary. Couple that with the pressure of being the one to press the button, and you’re sweating ice. At the time, I was seated next to Ping who gripped my arm so tightly her handprint remained in my arm for days! 

Hammock

The photo above is not much to see but it has an interesting story to tell. Please take note of the pair of slippers below the hammock. 

It was midday. In the middle of the ferry ride in the middle of the sea, one fellow rigged a hammock in the middle of the ship’s view deck. He wrapped himself in and then, fell asleep. We were enjoying the scenery out in the open when the rain came. It started as a drizzle then to a full-fledged rain. We seek cover but the fellow stayed wrapped inside the now dripping hammock. We were huddled close to the ship’s overhanging upper deck, but our eyes were glued in that unmoving lump inside the hammock. Alerted by the admiring crowd, the fellow’s friend run to his rescue. He shook him silly and run back, but his friend didn’t wake up, so back he went again. This time he yanked the hammock, his friend fell on the floor, and they both ran towards us.

It feels like a homerun hearing the cheering crowd. Ah whatta show!

Surf Symbol?

I can’t help posting this pic. This is my friend Paul’s daughter. Mine is 2 months older. This was taken by Laris while working on her thesis. She asked us if we were to equate surfing to a thing (to symbolize surfing) what would it be and why. The why part was easy: Because it makes as happy and excited, takes our troubles away and such. But the symbols make the answers more exciting. My symbol is a baby (hence, the pic with the baby and my longboard in the background), Micky-boy says a clean environment, Anthony sighs and says that it’s like getting married, Lemon (looking out to the ocean) says that its more than a sport, it’s his lifestyle. Now take this: George Tisoy says - his cat (which just had its 3 kittens), this has brought the house down!

Champ

 There is no stopping now. I will be champion next year! 

Spanking New Board

This is my new 10-ft South Point Longboard I bought at Lemon’s Surf Shop in La Union - My ride to the championship next year! 

Surf’s Up in San Juan, La Union!

I’m surfing again - in La Union! Here, we were waiting for the last set (of waves) at sunset! Ahh, what a day! Next pic will be with my spanking long board!

Photo courtesy of jumpstop33 on Flicker.

Waiting Shed

Just when tide waters started to recede, we began our inter-island walk for about one and a half hours from Pangan-an to Olango, two exotic islands belonging to Lapu-lapu City, Philippines . Right before dusk, we reached this waiting shed in the middle of the ocean on a flat coral bedrock.

Submerged Walkway

This stunning photograph is the submerged walkway in the bird sanctuary area of Olango island in Cebu. These are a group of volunteers from different parts of the Philippines, Germany, Korea, Japan, the United States of America and France. For more info on how to join this program log on to www.winphil.wetpaint.com.

Coyote

We stepped out of the car and walked on the snow.  It crackled.  It was a very distinct sound, something I never heard before.  Snow was falling again.  I looked up and let snow fall on my face.  It was pleasantly cold on my skin.  I removed my gloves and opened my palms.  Snow crystals melted as quickly as they make contact.  They say no two snow crystals are alike.  And how many are there in each snowfall?  Remarkable!   As we were driving towards Grant Village on Lake Country, a coyote loped across a meadow.  We stopped, but not long enough to see him find and catch his dinner.  What could it be?  And what must he be thinking of us and our sudden intrusion into his peaceful world? 

Wildfire

At Madison junction I noticed new growth of lodgepole pines interspersed by the eerie charred remains of their predecessors that were consumed by the wildfires of 1988.  At the time, Armageddon has fallen, eating up more than half of Yellowstone.  There were over 25,000 firefighters and thousands of soldiers were called in to help the civilian crews.  Smoke columns from the park became visible as far as 500 miles away, and ash fell over 100 miles away. 

To emphasize the immensity of the ‘88 wildfires, Dan Sholly, Chief Ranger, of Yellowstone NP noted that - “All the land features – rivers, canyons, meadows – that usually stop a forest fire’s progress were proving to be worthless. This was a barbarian of a forest fire – ruthless and unpredictable.”  He continued in saying that - “Every single one of our predictions had turned out to be wrong, as well as those of five of the top fire-behavior specialists in the world.  The problem was that no one had ever seen fire behavior like this before.  The book on projecting wildfire was seemingly being re-written by Satan himself.” 

Volcanic

Fumarole                                                                      Mudpots

Hot Spring                                                                        Geyser

Fumaroles or steam vents are the hottest hydrothermal features in the Yellowstone. They have so little water that they all flash into steam before reaching the surface.  They hiss and emit vapors rich in sulfuric acid that breaks rocks, turning it down into clay to form mud pots.  Hot springs are the most common hydrothermal features.  Due to their natural plumbing, and circulation called convection, they are prevented from erupting.  Superheated water cools as it reaches the surface, then sinks, and is replaced by hotter water from below.  Geysers on the other hand are a type of geothermal feature that erupt scalding hot water. Old Faithful is the most famous and goes up to over 100 feet.  But it is hardly the most spectacular when compared with one like Steamboat Geyser, the world’s largest.  The rangers at the park said that when Steamboat erupts, it roars like a tornado for hours and throws up a boiling plume over 380 feet, expelling over a million gallons of water.  New Zealand and Iceland are known for geysers, but nowhere are there as many as in Yellowstone.

Grizzly

Back in the car, we turned east to Roosevelt Country to visit Tower Falls.  On the way to the lookout, we passed by a sign that says our safety was not guaranteed if we went on the trail.  It means that in Yellowstone’s backcountry, man is no longer number one, and that out there, are things a lot more powerful.  Our eyes suddenly became as alert as our feet because right here, grizzly bears wander when they’re hungry.  Its powerful jaws can crack bones and one swing of its paw can cause instant decapitation.   

Old Faithful

In the morning we got up early to our first amazing experience with Old Faithful geyser.  With an average of 92 minutes interval, we were in for the predicted 7:17am eruption that may last just over 2 minutes.  It was already a few minutes past 7 o’clock and people started to gather on the platform for the show to begin.  The walkways surrounding it as well as the benches were frosted, so it’s slippery and very cold.  Mist let out from our mouths as we exhale.  Then we heard the unmistakable gurgling sound underneath, and the steady rising of water from its vent.  Within seconds water shot a hundred feet vertically up.  Our gaze followed, and for a time nothing else mattered.  Nature does that to you.